Surfing is an ancient culture of the Polynesians. Their chiefs are the best technocrats in the tribe and have the best surfboards made using the best trees. The ruling class has the best beaches and boards; the average class of people is not allowed to enter their beaches, but the people can be promoted to these privileges through excellent surfing techniques.
The earliest European sightings were recorded by Dolphin’s crew in Tahiti in 1767. After the death of Captain Cook in 1779, Lieutenant King James recorded the art of surfing in the log of Captain Cook.
Surfing is the life of Polynesians, just like the movement of the Western world today. It affects Polynesian society, religion and mythology. The Polynesian chiefs used their stunt as a symbol of their prestige.
After decades of discovering this kind of surfing game, Cork has promoted it in California, USA, under the auspices of Hawaiian American hamomocu who won the swimming championship of the 1912 Olympic Games. Now it is popular in Hawaii and North America. Peru, Australia and South Africa already have world-class surf tournaments.
The athlete stands on a surfboard, or uses a web, a seesaw, an inflatable rubber pad, a rowing boat, a kayak, and a water sport that rides the waves. Regardless of the type of equipment used, athletes must have high skills and balance, and be good at swimming long distances in the storm.
Surfing is wave-driven and takes place on a stormy seashore. The height of the waves should be about 1 meter, and the minimum should be no less than 30 centimeters. The Hawaiian Islands have waves that are suitable for surfing all year round. In particular, there are waves coming from the North Pacific Ocean in winter or spring. The waves are as high as 4 meters, allowing athletes to slide over 800 meters. Therefore, the Hawaiian Islands have always been the center of world surfing.